I recently bought a turtle at a local fair. He is about four centimeters in diameter and I read somewhere that they are referred to as “penny” turtles. I was given a bowl-like enclosure for him, and dried shrimp for food, but I was wondering what I should keep him in for long-term? Thank you.
How Do You Take Care Of A “penny” Turtle?
Posted November 3rd, 2009 by admin
November 3rd, 2009 - 9:40 pm
That first one was a very long, broad answer on turtle care in general and a good read. I’m not sure where you’re located, but it’s illegal to sell turtles under 4″ in length in the US. But that’s irrelevant now that you already have it.
I’d say that, right now, the most important things for your turtle as a baby are water quality and UV (particularly UVB) lighting. The full spectrum lighting is very important for shell development at this age and doing regular water changes will help keep it free of disease. A bottle of aquarium water conditioner doesn’t cost much and will last you quite a while in your current container. As your turtle grows, however, you’ll need to provide a tank big enough (10 gallons per inch of turtle is the generally accepted rule). If your turtle is a red ear slider (most likely) it can grow to anywhere from 8-12″.
I give my turtles shrimp as treats, but I try to use the floating pellets as the main staple. They’re formulated with vitamins and protein especially for turtles.
November 4th, 2009 - 3:35 am
“penny turtles” do not refer to a species – they are just baby turtles
Do keep in mind when you are looking at buying a turtle that they will grow to a very large size (30cm or more) which means more room will be needed. They can also live for 20 years or more. These are a long-term pet.
Note that the term “penny turtles” do not refer to a species – they are just baby turtles which will grow into adult turtles.
Caution
Turtles have very sharp claws, and can, if alarmed or stressed, deliver a painful scratch or bite. Always handle with care.
Equipment needed
Aquarium and furnishings
Turtles require a swimming area and a basking area. The swimming area should be large enough to provide ample swimming room. The use of rocks and logs will enable your turtle to climb out of the water and onto the land area, or alternatively turtle tanks are available which have a ‘built-in’ ramp. Because your turtle will dig around in the gravel, be sure that any tank furnishings are firmly in place, otherwise they may dislodge and fall on top of your turtle, injuring it.
Initially, if you purchase baby turtles, they can be kept in about a 24” tank, however you will need to upgrade to bigger tanks as your turtle grows. For this reason, we recommend that you buy as large a tank as you can afford and have the room for. If you wish to keep your turtle indoors when it reaches adulthood, you may need to get a tank as big as 6’ or 8’ long.
Filter
Turtles produce more waste than any other aquatic animal, so a filter will be necessary to keep the water clean. For an aquarium, an internal power filter will often work the best, depending on the volume of water that you have. Talk to us about possible options for filtering the water.
Other needs…
You will need some gravel for placing on the bottom of the aquarium and some styrene foam to sit the aquarium on. Choose gravel that has smooth edges so that your turtle doesn’t scratch itself. Chlorine neutralizer (if you are keeping fish) and aquarium salt is also recommended.
Setting up the turtle aquarium
When you get home, rinse the tank out in fresh water (DO NOT USE DETERGENTS) and select a location for it. This should not be too close to a window, or else green algae may become a problem, and it definitely should not get any direct rays of the sun.
Once the location is determined, and the tank is in place with the styrene foam underneath, gravel can be added. Before adding the gravel, wash it well in a bucket to ensure that all dirt is removed.
Once the gravel is in place, the tank is ready to be filled. Add chlorine neutralizer (if needed) and aquarium salt in the recommended dosage, and you are ready to add the plants and fish.
It is a good idea when filling the tank to measure how many litres of water the tank holds, as you will need to know this in order to add the right amounts of chlorine neutralizer and aquarium salt (as well as any medications you may need to add in the future). To calculate the volume in litres, multiply the length x width x height (in centimeters) together, then divide by 1000.
The Water
Turtles do not require chlorine neutralizer adding to the water. However, if you wish to keep fish with your turtle, chlorine neutralizer will need to be added. Aquarium Salt is highly recommended for turtles, providing a degree of disease prevention. A pH of 7.0 is recommended for turtles.
Young turtles will require the water to be heated in winter to a temperature of 25oC. It is important not to let the water temperature drop below 22oC. When your turtle is a couple of years older, it is possible to allow it to go into torpor (similar to hibernation) over winter, during which time the water will not need to be heated.
Adding a neutralizer block to the water is advisable. Not only will this help to keep the water from becoming too acidic, but it will also release calcium into the water which helps to prevent soft shell, a particularly common health problem of young turtles.
Lighting
Turtles need plenty of UV light. UV rays result in the production of Vitamin D3, which in turn promotes the proper utilization of calcium for your turtle. A lack of Vitamin D3 will result in bone deformities and soft shell problems.
In an outdoor enclosure turtles are able to bask in the sun and receive high levels of UV light. However when they are housed inside, you will need to provide that light for them. A reflector, with a reptile fluorescent tube (such as Repti-Glo or Repti-Star), will provide enough UV light for your turtle’s health. Note that UV rays will not pass through glass, so do not use a glass lid directly underneath the reflector (it is advisable however to have glass directly underneath the ends of the reflector to prevent water from splashing up into the light contacts). As the amount of UV emitted will decrease over time, aim to replace your light tube every 6 to 12 months.
You can also provide a basking lamp in addition to the UV light (although this is not essential). A basking lamp will provide heat in the basking area, and warm the air in the tank.
Decorating the Turtle Tank
Plants are an important part of the furnishings. These will provide shelter, as well as a valuable food source. Plants are particularly important for baby turtles which, in the wild, are considered a prey item. It is natural for your baby turtle to want to hide in amongst the plants. Plenty of plants, such as Elodea and Vallisneria are ideal. If you do not provide enough plant cover, your baby turtles will become stressed, and may become ill.
Feeding Turtles
Turtles are mainly carnivorous, however they should always be offered fruit, plants and vegetables on a regular basis. Commercially prepared turtle food, such as turtle pellets and frozen turtle dinners, are a convenient way to feed your turtles. Fruits and vegetables that can be fed include peas, banana, pears, sweet potato and squash. Other items that you can try are frozen pinkie mice (thawed out), frozen blood worm, live blackworms, live brine shrimp, mealworms, crickets and lean mince. Turtles may also eat small fish.
A vitamin and mineral powder is beneficial for your turtle. Added to the food once or twice a week, this will ensure that your turtle is receiving the best of nutrition. A calcium supplement is especially beneficial for baby turtles or turtles that are sloughing.
Baby turtles should be fed twice daily for the first year of their life. An adult turtle will require feeding only 2 or 3 times a week. Turtles should be fed as much as they will eat within a 5 minute period. For adult turtles this equates to an amount of food equaling the size of a matchbox. Another guide is to feed the turtle a portion of feed equaling the size of its head.
Water temperature is critical when feeding turtles. If the water is below 20oC digestive problems may result while at temperatures above 30oC, regurgitation can occur. If you maintain the water temperature at 25oC you will not have problems.
Turtles may start to eat a lot more just before winter to build up body fat, and then, if you rely on natural heating, will not eat through the colder months as they go into torpor. If allowing your turtle to enter torpor, cease feeding about one month before, to ensure that all food has cleared the digestive tract before entering torpor.
Torpor
During the colder months, unless you heat your turtle’s water, it will go into torpor, which is similar to hibernation. As the temperature gets colder, your turtle will cease feeding, and will usually find a secure spot on land where it can bury into soft soil or leaves.
Torpor usually occurs from May to September, but can depend on the severity of the winter and the location you house your turtle. Do not allow the temperature to get below about 5oC.
Handling your turtle
Turtles can be handled, but you will need to take care. Baby turtles have extremely soft shells, so avoid handling as much as possible, as shell damage can result from excessive handling. When you need to handle young turtles, do not pick them up by the shell, as the shell is still soft and deformities can result.
When picking up your turtle, use two hands. Put your fingers under the plastron (the bottom shell) and your thumbs on the carapace (the top shell). Ideally, let baby turtles sit on the palm of your hand, and support with your other hand to prevent them from falling off. As your turtle grows, you can handle it a bit more. But be careful as they have very sharp claws which can deliver a painful scratch.
Sloughing
Turtles shed their skin – a process known as sloughing. They can slough up to four times a year. The hard shell of the turtle has individual plate-like scales called scutes. When sloughing, these plates will slowly lift off. Never pull them off as this will result in damage to the new scutes. The skin will also peel off over their head and legs. It is very important to make sure that the old skin peels off properly from around the toes and the shoulders. If old skin remains, it can constrict the blood flow to the limb resulting in deformities.
Routine Maintenance
As mentioned previously, turtles are messy. Good filtration and regular water changes should be a number one priority. An indoor aquarium should have about a 30% water change every week. Sponges in the filter should be cleaned about every 2-4 weeks. Always clean the filter in water just taken out of the tank rather than under the tap – this preserves the beneficial bacteria that help to break down the turtles waste products.
Health
There are various ailments that can affect turtles. The most common to affect baby turtles is fungal infections. This is usually a result of stress, poor water quality or an incorrect diet. This can be treated relatively easily using Wardleys Fungus-Ade, but it is always a good idea to seek the advice of a specialist vet.
Other common problems affecting baby turtle are shell problems. Incorrect diet or incorrect handling can result in shell deformities. Respiratory infections, skin disorders, parasites and abscesses are also seen in turtles. Many of these are a result of poor husbandry. Remember, a clean tank is the first line of defence against illness.
If you suspect your turtle is ill, strict hygiene should be observed to reduce the spread of infection, and a trip to the vet is often needed to identify the problem. We can recommend a reptile vet in your area if you need one.
What to do when your turtle outgrows the aquarium…
Once your turtle reaches about 15cm, it ideally should be housed in an outdoor enclosure. A fish pond, with rocks or logs positioned so that the turtle can get out of the water is ideal. Do not use pond liners to make a pond, as the turtle’s sharp claws can scratch through the liner causing the pond to leak. Ponds should be a minimum of 40cm deep and about 1 metre square.
Place your pond so that it receives both shade and sun. If you place it in direct sunlight, there is a chance that your turtle will overheat and die. Outdoor ponds should be protected from predators (such as birds, cats and other animals). It should also have a solid wall at least 40cm high surrounding the enclosure, buried about 30cm into the ground, to prevent the turtles from escaping. DO NOT use wire. A shelter can be constructed to allow shade and shelter when your turtle is out of the water.
Maintenance in outdoor ponds is not as intensive as aquariums. Provided that adequate filtration and a strict feeding schedule is observed, you will only need to change about 30% of the water every 1-2 months.
You are now ready to enjoy your pet turtle. They are an unusual pet which can provide many hours of enjoyment. Should you have any problems, please don’t hesitate to contact us and we will endeavour to do our best to help.
November 4th, 2009 - 7:23 am
wow theres no way of compiting with the first answer because it probably covered all about turtles so I suggest to get time to read it and take its advise so just make sure u have a day of work to read the answer lol.
November 4th, 2009 - 11:47 am
what you probably got is a red ear slider they were giving them away as prizes at a fair in my state also -which i think is very cruel –anyways i got one when i was in myrtle beach 6-7 years ago and everyone elses that got one at the fair that year ended up dying because they were not properly cared for-i however did a lot of research on the internet and found out how to care for it i would suggest going to google and looking up aquatic turtles from there you should be able to identify what kind of turtle you have and how to care for it unlike many people think and can be an expense to take care of them you cant just stick them in the water and let them be they need a big enough tank for their size which will keep getting larger as they grow, proper lighting, a basking area where they can dry out, you will have to clean the tank probably every other day or buy a filter (with the filter it still needs cleaned just not as often), a temperature gauge, food, etc. You should be able to go to a local pet store and someone can help with all the details–dried shrimp is not a good diet for a turtle they are to be given as treats only you need a food specifically for aquatic turtles–i myself was a person that thought it would be a simple pet to have and later found all all the details to care for it and am happy to say my turtle is still alive and happy and is now about 6-7in in diameter
****also good info mud frog ***